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Master's Dissertation
DOI
https://doi.org/10.11606/D.100.2021.tde-26052021-192952
Document
Author
Full name
Luiza Helena Freitas de Oliveira
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2021
Supervisor
Committee
Italiano, Isabel Cristina (President)
Held, Maria Silvia Barros de
Silveira, Icléia
Souza, Patrícia de Mello
Title in Portuguese
A camisa masculina entre os séculos XVI e XIX: um mapeamento de elementos materiais e modelagem
Keywords in Portuguese
Alfaiataria
Camisa
História do vestuário
Modelagem
Abstract in Portuguese
No presente trabalho buscou-se identificar quais elementos parecem caracterizar as camisas masculinas, sua modelagem e construção, entre os séculos XVI e XIX na Europa, com especial atenção a suas transformações mais significativas no período, com base, sobretudo, em alguns principais acervos de trajes no mundo e em acervos iconográficos. Assim, fez-se possível, a compreensão da natureza das camisas, quanto às características construtivas e materiais, além da organização da trajetória desta categoria de vestuário em uma linha cronológica, com vistas a subsidiar a recriação digital de peças semelhantes a serem propostas pela pesquisadora. Do período de recorte, foi dado enfoque principalmente no século XIX, na Europa, devido à ampla disponibilidade de peças históricas em acervos museológicos e de registros detalhados. A escolha da camisa masculina, como objeto de estudo, deve-se ao fato de que de todas as peças que pertenciam ao contexto de roupas brancas, a camisa foi a única que efetivamente saiu da roupa interior para ser uma protagonista na vestimenta do homem e da mulher contemporâneos. Foram selecionadas nove camisas, representativas da trajetória desse traje, para serem apresentadas em uma linha do tempo, visando contar a história da peça nesse período histórico. Além disso, foi feita a recriação digital das mesmas em imagens tridimensionais, a partir das modelagens históricas pesquisadas, possibilitando a visualização dos detalhes de construção. Por meio dessa pesquisa, espera-se contribuir com o aprofundamento do estudo no campo, tanto na história do vestuário quanto nos aspectos relacionados à alfaiataria
Title in English
The male shirt between the sixteenth and nineteenth century: a mapping of material elements and pattern making
Keywords in English
Dressing
History of dressing
Pattern making
Shirt
Tailoring
Abstract in English
In this study it was sought to identify which elements seem to characterize the masculine shirts, their pattern making and construction, between the 16th and 19th centuries in Europe, with special attention to their most significant transformations in the referred period, based, above all, on some of the most important collections of garments in the world, and in iconographic collections as well. Therefore, it was possible to understand the nature of shirts regarding constructive and material characteristics , in addition to organize the historical path of this category of clothing in a timeline, aiming the digital recreation of similar pieces to be proposed by the researcher. From the period chosen, the focus was mainly on the 19th century, in Europe, due to the wide availability of historical pieces in museum collections and detailed records. The choice of the masculine shirt as object of study is due to the fact that, from all the items belonging to the context of undergarments, the shirt was the only one that had effectively developed from being an under clothing to be part of on view masculine and feminine dressing. Nine shirts were selected, representing the path of this garment, to be presented in a timeline aiming to tell the story of this item in the chosen historical period. In addition, they were recreated in tri-dimensional images, based on historical patterns studied, enabling the visualization of details in garments construction. With this research, it is expected to contribute to in-depth studies in the pattern making area, not only in history of dressing, but also in tailoring aspects
 
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Publishing Date
2021-09-01
 
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