• JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
 
  Bookmark and Share
 
 
Master's Dissertation
DOI
10.11606/D.9.2016.tde-21012005-102511
Document
Author
Full name
Tania Cristina de Sa Dias
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2004
Supervisor
Committee
Velasco, Maria Valeria Robles (President)
Fonseca, Maria Jose Vieira
Pessoa Junior, Adalberto
Title in Portuguese
Análise da ação condicionadora de substâncias cosméticas adicionadas em alisante capilar à base de tioglicolato de amônio
Keywords in Portuguese
Cabelo (Tratamento químico)
Cosméticos (Análise qualitativa)
Cosmetologia
Emulsões cosméticas (Efeitos;Análise)
Abstract in Portuguese
O alisamento químico é o método mais empregado para melhorar a penteabilidade e a estilização de cabelos afro-étnicos. O cabelo é composto basicamente de três partes: cutícula, córtex e medula. O principal constituinte é uma proteína, a queratina. O tratamento com agente alcalino, redutor e/ou oxidante, provoca modificações nessa estrutura, ocasionando danos que podem ocorrer na camada superficial (cutícula) ou em toda a fibra, atingindo inclusive o córtex e modificando as propriedades físico-químicas do cabelo, pois o torna mais quebradiço, frágil, sem brilho, áspero e com mais dificuldade para ser penteado e desembaraçado. O emprego de agentes condicionadores auxilia na melhora dos atributos físicos e sensoriais do cabelo tornando-o mais resistente e facilitando o manuseio. Neste estudo foi preparado um creme-base alisante com tioglicolato de amônio acrescido de agentes condicionadores pré-escolhidos e adicionados no momento do uso. A formulação-base foi submetida ao estudo de estabilidade física por dois meses. Foram realizados testes de: quantificação da perda de proteína equivalente em albumina, empregando-se o método de Lowry modificado por Peterson; penteabilidade e tração de ruptura. Os resultados indicaram que a adição de óleo de jojoba e de silicones, como Lauril PEG/PPG18/18 meticona e Ciclopentasiloxano (e) PEG-12 polímero de dimeticone reticulado, melhoram os atributos físico-químicos e sensoriais das mechas de cabelo afro-étnico, sendo indicado como agentes condicionadores que poderão ser acrescidos à formulação do creme-base alisante.
Title in English
Analysis of the conditioning action of cosmetic substances added in capillary straightener based on ammonium thioglycolate
Keywords in English
Cosmetic emulsions (Effects; Analysis)
Cosmetics (Qualitative analysis)
Cosmetology
Hair (Chemical treatment)
Abstract in English
Chemical hair relaxing is the most common used method to improve combability and styling on afro-ethnic hair. The hair is basically composed of three parts: cuticle, cortex and medulla. The main basic element is a protein, the keratin. The treatment with an alkaline reducing agent and/or an oxidant agent causes modifications in this structure, and related damages that can occur in the superficial layer (cuticle) through ali the fiber, reaching the cortex and modifying the physical-chemical properties of the hair. In that case, the hair becomes more fragile, it has no shine, gets rough and it is very difficulty to comb and to detangle it. Conditioning agents can improve the physical and sensorial attributes of the hair, thus allowing it to become more resistant and making it easier to take care of. In this study a hair straightener cream-base with ammonium thioglycolate was prepared and the selected conditioning agents added at the moment of the use. The straightener cream-base was submitted to the physical stability study for two months. The tests had been carried through: quantification of protein loss of albumine equivalent, using the Lowry method modified by Peterson; the combability and rupture traction. The results have indicated that the addition of Jojoba oil and silicones as Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; and Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer, improve the physical-chemical and sensorial attributes of the afro-ethnic hair tresses, being indicated as conditioning agents that could be added in a hair straighteners cream formulation to help its care.
 
WARNING - Viewing this document is conditioned on your acceptance of the following terms of use:
This document is only for private use for research and teaching activities. Reproduction for commercial use is forbidden. This rights cover the whole data about this document as well as its contents. Any uses or copies of this document in whole or in part must include the author's name.
Publishing Date
2016-11-11
 
WARNING: Learn what derived works are clicking here.
All rights of the thesis/dissertation are from the authors
CeTI-SC/STI
Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations of USP. Copyright © 2001-2020. All rights reserved.